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What we read, what types of arts we prefer, various historical facts.
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By jay.makhija India
#310013
Hello!!, everyone. I'm Jay, I'm artist and I work with Textile Arts, I like to travel for research and to seek inspirations for my subject. I like to teach and interact with students, I live in the city of Mumbai where I have my little company.


TEXTILE ARTS

The term Textile Arts means, techniques of embroidery, printing, dyeing, weaving and sewing. As language or architecture textiles have been symbolic to a cultural identity, it has represented visually a race, ethnic group, gender, era and social hierarchy apart from serving its function in protecting from external weather. The present country of India being an ancient civilization, diverse in culture has changed its borders many times over the past centuries, it has received traders, students, immigrants, scholars and invaders who bought with them influences in various art forms. Over the period of time new techniques were adopted as the older ones evolved. Textiles were created for domestic consumption as well as they formed a major part of the export basket.

Four major European powers British, Dutch, Portuguese and French created trading companies to conduct business with the East, spices and textiles were major export commodities to the West from the period of 1600 to mid 1800 till the Industrial Revolution 1.

EMROIDERED TEXTILES

Embroidery for the European Market

Indian subcontinent has been a major source of hand embroideries, embroideries have been identified by their ornaments as well as their stitches. Embroidered textiles were created for courts and domestic consumption as well as for the European Markets, a lot of these techniques have disappeared while a few struggle to survive. These palates of embroidered textiles were for the export market.

1. Bed or wall hanging, cotton embroidered with silk, chain stich for English market

2. Ruffle, cotton drawn thread work and embroidered with silk chain stitch

3. Cotton embroidered with floss silk satin stitch

4. Cotton embroidered with silk, chain stitch

5. Cotton embroidered with floss silk, satin stitch
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By jay.makhija India
#310192
6 Bedcover for Portuguese market 17 century, cotton quilted and embroidered with silk, back stich.

7 Cape for Portuguese market 17 century, cotton embroidered with tussar silk, chain stitch.

8 Border of a bedcover, cotton embroidered with tussar silk chain stitch For Portuguese market 17 century.

9 Cotton embroidered with tussar silk chain stitch back stitch for Portuguese market 17 century.

10 Cotton embroidered with tussar silk chain stitch back stitch for Portuguese market 17 century.
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By Sundari Russia
#310193
:surprised: :claps: brocade is very beautiful.
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By jay.makhija India
#310220
Mughal and Courtly Embroidery

The designs of the Mughal pieces are in most cases quite distinct from those made for the European market, as they often make use of the favorite Mughal motif of the single flowering plant, often within an arched niche. Others combine Mughal floral elements with European conventions or use the deep pink and blue color scheme and floral motifs of the export pieces on the floorspread patterns, with additional corner quadrants and central medallions in a typical Islamic layout. One exceptional piece adopts a more naturalistic design incorporating animals, birds and trees .This coat (1. Mans Coat) one of the finest surviving examples of Indian embroidery, uses an unusually delicate color scheme in a design that incorporates Chinese and Iranian elements, and is contained within a typically Iranian border.

Furnishings such as floorspreads and tent hangings are by far the most numerous of the textiles from the Mughal or other courts to have survived, garments and other items of more delicate fabric have mostly perished. These furnishings are frequently very elaborate and may incorporate metal wrapped thread as well as silk embroidery > even on the move between cities or on military campaigns, the living quarters of the Mughal emperor and his nobles were extremely lavish, and although the tents in which they camped had plain cotton exteriors, red in the case of royal tents, the interiors were lined with chintz, brocades or embroidered hangings.

1 Mans Coat, 1620-30 Silk embroidered with silk thread, chain stitch

2 Tent Hanging, late 17 Century Cotton ground, embroidered with floss silk and silver gilt wrapped thread satin stitch, brick stitch, chain stitch, laid and couched work, h 181 cm, w 162 cm Mughal late 17 century

3 Hanging, Cotton embroidered with silk, chain stitch h 117 cm, w 81.25 cm Mughal late 17 century
Man Coat.jpg
Mans Coat.jpg
Tent hanging.jpg
Hanging.jpg
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By jay.makhija India
#310222
Mughal and Courtly Embroidery

4 Tent hanging, cotton ground, quilted and embroidered with silk chain stitch, quilted with double running stitch c 1700

5 Flooorspread, cotton embroidered with silk chain stitch c 1700

6 Mans sash (patka) cotton embroidered with floss silk and gold wrapped thread satin stitch early 18th century

7 Mans sash (patka) cotton embroidered with floss silk and metal wire satin stitch early 18th century

8 Fragment of a turban cloth cotton embroidered with silk chain stitch early 18th century
Tent hanging (2).jpg
Floorspread.jpg
Mans Sash ( patka ).jpg
Mans Sash ( Patka ) (2).jpg
Fragment of a turban cloth.jpg
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By jay.makhija India
#310223
Later Urban Embroidery

Shawl with map of Srinagar

Wool, embroidered with woolen thread, darning stitch, satin stitch, stem stitch
L 229 cm, w 198 cm
Srinagar Kashmir 1860


Semi circular shawl

Wool, embroidered with woolen thread straight stitches
L 168 cm, w 305 cm
Srinagar, Kashmir 1840 - 60
Shawl with map of Srinagar , Kashmir 1860.jpg
Shawl with map of Srinagar, Kashmir 1860.jpg
Semi circular shawl Srinagar Kashmir 1840-60.jpg
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By Sundari Russia
#310227
Very interesting type of the shawl on the last photo!
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By jay.makhija India
#310258
Three Caps
Srinagar. Kashmir c 1885
Wool, embroidered with woolen thread, cotton embroidered with floss silk, darning stitch, chain stitch, satin stitch

Embroideries from Himachal Pradesh

Coverlet (rumal)
Himachal Pradesh, probably Basohi, late 18 century
Cotton embroidered with floss silk, double darning stitch


Hanging depicting the battle of Kurukshetra
Chamba, Himachal Pradesh c 1800
Cotton embroidered with floss silk, double darning stitch


Coverlet (rumal)
Nurpur, Himachal Pradesh c 1880
Cotton embroidered with floss silk, double darning stitch


Coverlet (rumal)
Himachal Pradesh, Chamba or Kangra, early 20 century
Cotton embroidered with floss silk, double darning stitch
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Coverlet ( Rumal ).jpg
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By jay.makhija India
#310300
Urban Embroideries

Uncut borders for a garment, Lucknow Uttar Pradesh late 19th or early 20th century
Cotton embroidered with cotton and muga silk thread


Scarf, Lucknow c 1880
Cotton embroidered with cotton


Handkerchief, Calcutta mid 19 century
Cotton embroidered with cotton and silk thread


Length of dress fabric, Gwalior, c 1855
Cotton embroidered with cotton and silk thread


Length of dress fabric Dhaka Bangladesh c 1855
Cotton embroidered with cotton thread with drawn thread work
Uncut borders for a garment , Lucknow.jpg
Scarf , Lucknow.jpg
Handkerchief ,Calcutta mid 19 century.jpg
Length of dress fabric, Gwalior , Madhya Pradesh c1855.jpg
Length of dress fabric Dhaka Bangladesh c1855.jpg
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